By
Bonnie Carroll
The
Island of Maui became a favorite haunt of mine in the late 70's
and has continued through the years to beckon me back. In 1979,
Longi's was the hot restaurant venue in Lahaina and the Lahaina
Health Food store provided great sprout sandwiches for picnic
lunches at the seashore.
Today,
the food scene on Maui has reached a pinnacle of style and quality
that respectably holds its own with the best of cities in the
continental United States. From James McDonald's Pacific
O' to a bevy of executive chefs like Executive Chef Jon
Benson of the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, Bart
Umidi of the Westin Maui, John Zaner
of the Ritz-Carlton at Kapalua, Bryan Ashlock
of the Sheraton Maui, Michael Gallagher of Napili
Kai Beach Resort, Thomas Muromoto of Ka'anapali
Beach Hotel, Tom Selman of Sansei Seafood Restaurant,
Alex Stanislaw of the Plantation House Restaurant,
John Ellman of Penne Pasta Café, Dean
Louis of Café Sauvage, and Bobby Masters
of Hula Grill. The annual Maui Chef's event, a fundraiser sponsored
by the Kaanapali Beach Resort Association and the Hyatt Regency
Maui Hotel, attracts a collection of extremely talented island
chefs, who are passionate about what they do and excited to help
local charities, while also incorporating island produce and fresh
seafood in the flavorful dishes they create.
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Among this milieu
of extraordinary culinary island stars is Thomas Muromoto,
Executive Chef at the Kaanapali Beach Hotel. This historic and
traditionally Hawaiian hotel features a walking garden and tour
filled with samples and legend tales of plants, and foods used
to prepare feasts for the Hawaiian kings, who lived at Lahaina
when it was the capital of the kingdom of Hawaii in the time of
King Kamehameha III. Many of the historic recipes prepared
with these plants and foods continue to be served by chef Muromoto
today.
According
to Chef Muromoto, the huge and I mean huge, kitchen
at the hotel is about to be renovated after many years and will
become a more compact working area. After doing chef interviews
in kitchens the size of a closet in the past, I was delighted
with this enormous culinary venue. As Chef Muromoto
prepared and explained each step of the items he was creating,
we took photos as he gave me the background on the Hawaiian origins
of the food items and spices on his table.
During
my day in the kitchen with Chef Muromoto, I learned
the history of poi, how it grows and the work required to grind
it down to prepare the pasty substance that accompanies many favorite
Hawaiian dishes. No Hawaiian Lu'au celebration would be complete
without this authentic side dish that visitors associate with
local food lore. It is at the heart of Muromoto's
genuine island food experience preserved in the Kulaiwi, "native
land cuisine", a diet that was traditionally believed to
nurture wellness. The Kulaiwi diet is high in wholesome starches
(complex carbohydrates), low in fat and moderate in protein.
Chef
Muromoto demonstrated the preparation of Lau
Lau, a fish specialty cooked and served in large Ti (a member
of the lily family that grows 3' to 10') and Taro leaves,
filled with Opakapaka fillet, ginger root, Roma tomatoes, herbs,
Maui onions, cilantro, green onions, Hawaiian sea salt and soy
sauce. This dish is wrapped like a gift, tied with ribbon, and
is perfectly steamed. Chef prefers to use Moi fish for the recipe.
Moi is currently a very popular island fish that Tom enjoys serving.
"Moi is a fish that has a mild flavor and lends itself easily
to a variety of preparation styles, which appeals to hotel guests,"
says Chef Muromoto.
The
Ka'anapali Beach Hotel staff are known for their desire to keep
the true Hawaiian heritage of their island alive, and the natural
charm of the venue, along with the relaxed atmosphere and true
Hawaiian dishes on their menu more than guarantee the fruition
of this goal. For people wishing to replicate the Hawaii their
parents and grandparents experienced for the first time, when
they got off a Matson Line cruise ship in the 30s and 40s', this
hotel can provide
that pure and totally disarming experience.
Natural
spices indigenous to the island include flavorful root ginger,
which is used freely by chefs in salads, entrees and desserts,
not to mention hot and cold tea drinks. The availability of fresh
fruits, including an abundance of pineapple, guava, mangos, bananas,
and more provide so many choices for chefs to include in designing
signature dishes and unique menu items. A favorite potato on Maui
is purple in color and lends not only a unique taste for entrée
side dishes, but also adds unique color to the dish.
Edible
flowers are used freely by chefs as an eye pleaser, and although
I have never quite gotten into eating flowers, I do love the beauty
and attractive splashes of color they add to the artistic design
of plates. Hawaiian drinks, including the popular Mai Tai and
Maui Sunrise, are adorned with local flowers, and are readily
available at all the popular island bars. If you are a wine connoisseur,
you will be quite pleased with the availability and selection
of outstanding and rare wines at restaurants and fine dining rooms
in the hotels.
The
hotel garden area surrounds a courtyard with a giant checker game
that is played with huge coconuts, as well as a charming outside
restaurant overlooking the hotel pool, where the chef and hotel
staff joined me to enjoy the delicious results of Chef’s
labors. All the beach hotels are located just steps away from
the stylish Kaanapali Beach shopping Center, which offers designer
shopping at Channel or Gucci, as well as a collection of shops
featuring beautiful artwork and jewelry memorabilia, as well the
hottest in beach apparel.
The
oceanfront walk lining the many hotels on Ka'anapali Beach, situated
on a three mile crescent of exquisite white sand beach, provides
a panoramic ocean view for guests taking vigorous morning walks
or leisurely evening strolls. This path is also a restaurant "yellow
brick road," leading to many of the best dining
venues on Maui.
To
plan your next vacation go to www.kaanapaliresort.com
Aloha!
Other
Great Links:
Ka'anapali
Beach Hotel Recipe
Lau
Lau Opakapaka
By
Thomas Muromoto
Pacific
O Recipe
Crispy
Ahi By Chef James Mc
Donald |