Public
Kitchen & Bar: An L.A. Eatery 'For the People'
The
legendary Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel has been a L.A.
landmark since 1927, having hosted the first-ever Academy Awards
and still serving as a playground for tinsel town's A-team.
Fun-loving gastronomes like me also flock to the locale for
another reason: Public Kitchen & Bar.
Situated
on the iconic hotel's ground floor just off lobby area, Public
Kitchen & Bar is a see-and-be-seen spot serving
up eclectic American fare courtesy of Executive Chef Tim Goodell.
Having opened for business in February 2011 in the space that
previously housed Dakota, this restaurant and bar duly harkens
Old Hollywood but with a decidedly hip, provincial and comfortable
sensibility - a formula that is working as evidenced by the
persistently full house of patrons most evenings, including
the evening of my recent visit.
The
décor at Public Kitchen & Bar is
rustic and reminiscent of a 1920's dining hall, with a grand
dining room rife with commanding butcher block tables, dark
woods, leather booths, and roomy diamond-tufted banquettes.
Adding an elegant and intimate feel are opalescent marble tiles
and twinkling table lights in mason jars. The interior design
also includes grand ironwork chandeliers amber glass lighting
that accents a restored ceiling mural uncovered during the restaurant's
renovation process. Rounding out the space are interesting décor
items like chalk boards outlining menu items, and some personal
touches, such as caricatures from frequent Hollywood Roosevelt
guests, black and white photos from Chef Goodell's family, and
kitchen heirlooms.
Delicious
food, tasty libations, and premier people-watching prevail at
this dinner-only establishment. Priced and democratically themed
with the idea that everything is "for the people"
and should be easily accessible, this righteous restaurant offers
up comfort food favorites alongside new Arcadian additions,
with many served in cast iron dishes. Be sure to start this
experience with to-die-for-fresh Parker House baked rolls with
Vermont creamery butter served piping hot in a small baking
pan. Incredible. With all pretention checked at the door, Public
Kitchen & Bar feels like going to a dinner party at a friend's
house or coming home to a great family-style meal.
For
groups who like to graze, Public Kitchen & Bar
offers a number of items perfect for sharing. Ours opted for
the rich and decadent Mushroom Tart - a flaky shortcrust pastry
topped with tellagio cheese and arugula. Other items great for
sharing are the Oysters with Meyer lemon and tarragon mignonette;
Chickpea and Three Cheese Fritters with zatar aioli; Chicharrones
with chili and lime; and a selection of Country Hams and Cured
Meats.
Small plate appetizers on the menu also tantalize, including
my table's choice of Diver Scallops with zucchini risotto and
Mint mascarpone; Charred Octopus with potatoes tossed in a tomato-coriander
vinaigrette and Neapolitan Meatballs with sugo, pine nuts and
currants. The scallops and risotto was cooked to perfection
and the combined flavor profile was impeccable. The chilled
octopus was the most tender I've had, while the meatballs -
a combination of lamb and beef - with sugo sauce was robust,
well-balanced and entirely satisfying. Other great app options
include the Oxtail Galette topped with a poached farm egg and
frisée; and Pastrami Cured Salmon with bagel, crème
fraiche and pickled red onions.
Public
Kitchen & Bar entrées, all priced under
$30, are equally enticing. My party ordered the Colorado Lamb
T-Bone, a lean lamb loin served with seasoned confetti cauliflower;
along with the Spice Duck Steak Leg Confit with to-die-for caramelized
turnips; and a Black Sea Bass with little neck clams served
in a chili oil-spiced broth on special that evening. In close
contention were the Duroc Pork Schnitzel with arugula salad;
and the Pancetta Wrapped Monkfish with roasted onion and potato
puree.
Diners
can also sample more adventurous offerings from the restaurant's
Blackboard Specials including Trotter and Black Truffle Sausage
with crispy potatoes and cavatelli; and Lamb Bolognese with
Bellwether Farms ricotta.
Public Kitchen and Bar Public Burger
Public
Kitchen & Bar's burger and prime steak selections have carnivores
chomping at the bit. Try the 16 oz. Prime New York Strip; 10
oz. Prime Filet the filet; or Cote d Boeuf with marrow bones
for 2. The burger here is epic, served with lettuce, tomato,
onion, 4-year aged cheddar, bacon, roasted tomato jam, hatch
green chili and roasted mushrooms. Order this with a side of
hand-cut Kennebec fries for your personal slice of Heaven. Other
sublime sides available to pair with any meal are tomatoes roasted
on the vine, roasted onion and potato puree, parsley potatoes,
roasted wild mushrooms, and buttered English peas.
If
by some miracle you still have room for dessert, there are a
number of great menu options. My party chose the Valrhona Chocolate
Soufflé for 2, served piping hot alongside velvety vanilla
bean crème anglaise. This insanely decadent dessert takes
20 minutes to prepare, so order accordingly. Other delicious
meal endings include Cheese Blintzes with mountain huckleberries,
Coupe Denmark with hot sipping chocolate, Warm Berliners filled
with seasonal marmalade and Chocolate and Butterscotch Puddings.
For 2, consider the Passionfruit and Lime Trifle with Chambord
macerated berries or the Strawberry Rhubarb Pie topped with
rhubarb vanilla bean ice cream.
Food
aside, this locale is also a popular watering hole. On one side
of the restaurant prominently sits The Library Bar - an expansive
marbled presence along with a large liquor display. It features
a wide array of clever specialty cocktails, a list of over 100
bottles of wine, draft and bottled beers, and a menu of cured
meats and cheeses, oysters, and small plates to share. Try a
Spiced Cucumber Collins that, while fresh and light, also delivers
a Shoshito pepper kick The "It's All Good" is sweet
and tart, concocted of Skyy Vodka, Domaine de Canton, mint and
a splash of soda.
I'm
pleased to welcome Public Kitchen and Bar to
Los Angeles' cuisine scene where Chef Goodell can duly showcase
his classic, home-spun menu amid warm and stylish décor
and kinetic Hollywood atmosphere.
Public Kitchen & Bar is located inside
the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel at 7000 Hollywood
Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90028. Learn more online at http://www.thompsonhotels.com/hotels/la/hollywood-roosevelt/eat/public-kitchen-and-bar.
By Merilee Kern, 'The Luxe List' Executive Editor
"The
Luxe List" Executive Editor Merilee Kern scours the luxury
marketplace for exemplary travel experiences, extraordinary
events, and notable products and services. Submissions are accepted
at www.LuxeListReviews.com.
Follow her on Twitter here: http://twitter.com/LuxeListEditor
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***Some
or all of the accommodations(s), experience(s), item(s) and/or
service(s) detailed above were provided at no cost to accommodate
this review, but all opinions expressed are entirely those of
Merilee Kern and have not been influenced in any way.***