By
George Brozowski
Have
you ever heard the one about the Eskimo and the gin?
Now, doesn't that sound like the intro to an insensitive,
racist, slanderous, offensive, pejorative, insulting joke
that really shouldn't be told? Well, truth be told it isn't
a joke, and it's not offensive; it's the truth, and it really
does involve Canadian Intuits (they don't particularly like
the term Eskimo) and arctic gin. Arctic gin? Whoever heard
of such a thing? Well, hold onto your chin straps because
you're about to hear about it.
Ungava
gin is a premium Canadian gin that hails from the
northern Quebec frontier where men are men and seals are afraid.
And believe me, it takes some seriously hardy souls to live
around Ungava Bay where summers are too cold for tree growth
and all the land surrounding the bay is treeless tundra. (There's
just got to be a decent joke lurking in there somewhere!?!)
Still there are numerous Intuit villages that surround the
bay. During the short summer, the native tribe handpicks the
6 botanicals that go into Ungava gin: Nordic Juniper, Wild
Rose Hips, Cloudberry, Crowberry, Arctic Blend and Labrador
Tea. I have to admit, I haven't heard of some of these previously
but they must be pretty potent as many other gin producers
use a dozen or more ingredients to flavor their gin.
Well,
let's see if Ungava gin passes the old taste
drive. The nose is a delicate blend of juniper first, followed
by mint and rose, and then tea all enveloped in a spicy envelope
with very little alcohol getting in the way. The palate is
quite laid back with the spiciness moving forward quickly,
accompanied by the juniper and pepper and a mélange
of tart and sweet, yet subtle floral notes. The finish is
spicy and floral and lasts a fairly long time leaving the
mouth and throat tingling. This is a much more vibrant gin
than I have tasted before, and with just that short ingredient
list, they do manage to pack a punch of flavor. On the rocks,
the spice notes mellow somewhat but they continue to be a
presence to be reckoned with. The juniper becomes clearer
and the floral notes present more perceptibly. The finish
settles down with the spice notes banished way to the back,
and now it becomes much more smooth and the finish is not
quite as long. With tonic water mixed in, just as God had
always meant for gin to be consumed, this gin becomes quite
subtle with the spice notes disappearing, the juniper and
the floral notes mellowing even more and the combined whole
blending into one easy to drink, drink.
As
a stand-alone sipper, this Ungava gin might
be a tad much with the flavors sharp and edgy and the spiciness
ever-present. On the rocks and especially in the company of
tonic this becomes a very pleasant summer cocktail filled
with just enough intriguing flavors to require at least a
second helping.
Priced
in the low $30's for a 750 ml bottle that has 43.1% alcohol
in it, it is certainly in that super premium range and could
be a decent addition to your bar. Which reminds me, have you
heard the one about the whale blubber and the wild rose hips?
For
more Rants & Raves click
here.
http://www.ungava-gin.com/en/