Finding
the Right Blend: Kerry Damskey & Dutcher Crossing
For
Kerry Damskey, winemaker at Dutcher
Crossing in the Dry Creek Valley of California, a key
element of making wine is the ability to be very honest with
yourself. "I had one of my own wines the other day, and
after trying it again, I thought, I don't think this is as good
as it could have been." It's that type of mindset which
has allowed Kerry to make great strides in his role at Dutcher
Crossing. He continually seeks out ways to make his wines better,
and that means working with each one until he and the rest of
his team are happy.
Putting
together a wine can be much like a chef in the kitchen trying
to find the perfect balance of flavor and texture in his dish.
It's a proccess of adding a bit more of one ingredient or another,
tasting it, comparing the new dish to the prior one, and then
testing if the additions have made the expected improvements.
While each bottle of Dutcher Crossing denotes
a single varietal, most of them are blended with smaller percentages
of other grapes. "The process [of blending] takes forever,"
Kerry laughs. But it really adds character and balance to the
wines. With their Sauvignon Blanc, Kerry likes to start with
good, defined Dry Creek Valley fruit. Once that Sauvignon Blanc
is ready, he'll add Viognier to bump up the flavors a bit. Then
a bit of Roussanne and Semillon to give it a bit more body and
texture. Kerry never wants the blended varietals to overwhelm
the main grape, only compliment and enhance to the overall wine.
The view from Dutcher Crossing's Breezeway
Dutcher Crossing's flagship wine, their Proprietor's Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon, has some Syrah added to it. In the case
of Dry Creek, the Cabernet grown in the region can be a bit
weedy and a bit sharp. Adding Syrah, which has a lot of berry
character, to the wine makes the greener notes turn towards
cedar and fills the structure out more. "We'll often go
through eight different renditions before we settle on one,"
Kerry says. "Luckily, Debra (the winery's proprietor) and
I have very similar palates. So we can look at each other, go
'nah that's not it,' and continue on."
Then
even when the wine seems to be right, they'll often leave it
and come back the next day just make sure what they think is
correct is actually what they want.
In
the next few years, Kerry is looking to expand Dutcher's line
up of wines to include a Rhone Style blend. It's likely to include
Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre, but it depends on how their
recently planted vines show. "I've already started experimenting
with other sources. I want to have a good idea of what works
before I start using our estate fruit," Kerry explains.
Kerry Damskey, winemaker at Dutcher Crossing
After over thirty years of making wine, the most gratifying
part of the job for Kerry is still "getting it right."
Of course, styles change and evolve and they'll be various market
trends, but in Kerry's mind, at some point, good wine is simply
good wine. "I think you just kind of know when it's right.
It's balance. It's depth. It's layers. It's yummy," he
says.
All
of Kerry's experience making wine hasn't changed is mind set
about the process. He still approaches each wine with a certain
zeal. Carefully selecting fruit and taking the time to figure
out the best components to add are all part of his drive to
achieve balance and find just the right blend for everything.
That approach is a big reason why Dutcher Crossing wines will
have such great promise for many years to come.
Dutcher
Crossing Label Reviews
|
Dutcher
Crossing 2007 Proprietor's Reserve Cabernet
Grape(s):
Cabernet and Syrah
Winery: Dutcher Crossing
Region: Dry Creek Valley - Sonoma County
Year: 2007
Special Designation: Proprietor's Reserve
Price: 25-30
Review:
A rich nose of blackberries, cherries, and cassis is accented
by notes of creamy oak and fennel seed. A sip and rich
dark fruit melds with flavors of black licorice, cedar,
and a hint of earth. A softer Cabernet that still has
nice structure, try a bottle if you enjoy more concentrated,
ripe fruit without strong flavors of spice and oak.
Rating: 89
Character: dark fruit,
supple tannins, soft mouthfeel
Farming Certification: (none) |
|
Dutcher
Crossing 2010 Sauvignon Blanc
Grape(s):
Sauvignon Blanc
Winery: Dutcher Crossing
Region: Dry Creek Valley - Sonoma County
Year: 2010
Special Designation: (none)
Price: 20-25
Review:
The nose offers aromas of citrus fruits, peaches, and
floral hints rounded out by a suggestion of honey. On
the palate, lemon, lime, and peach flavors meld with notes
of orange blossoms and minerals. A fairly crisp wine,
with a nice, tart finish, it can seem a bit dusty on its
own. So unless you enjoy fresh minerals add some food,
like grilled halibut, and the flavors will integrate nicely
Rating: 90
Character: citrus fruit,
supple mouthfeel, balanced acidity
Farming Certification: (none) |
|
Dutcher
Crossing 2009 Proprietor's Reserve Zinfandel
Grape(s):
Zinfandel and Petite Sirah
Winery: Dutcher Crossing
Region: Dry Creek Valley - Sonoma County
Year: 2009
Special Designation: Proprietor's Reserve
Price: 25-30
Review:
A rich nose of boysenberries, blueberries, and raspberries
is accented by notes of pepper. Lively berry flavors come
to life on the palate rounded out by suggestions of pepper
and earth. A brighter wine with a nice acidity that pairs
very well with food, it's for people that like more robust
style of Zin.
Rating: 90
Character: dark fruit,
brighter mouthfeel, light tannins
Farming Certification: (none) |
|
Dutcher
Crossing 2007 Maple Vineyard Zinfandel
Grape(s):
Zinfandel
Winery: Dutcher Crossing
Region: Dry Creek Valley - Sonoma County
Year: 2007
Special Designation: Maple Vineyard
Price: 35-40
Review:
A rich nose of blackberries, cherries, and cassis is accented
by notes of creamy oak and fennel seed. A sip and rich
dark fruit melds with flavors of black licorice, cedar,
and a hint of earth. A softer Cabernet that still has
nice structure, try a bottle if you enjoy more concentrated,
ripe fruit without strong flavors of spice and oak.
Rating: 89
Character: dark fruit,
supple tannins, soft mouthfeel
Farming Certification: (none) |
By
Jason Barlow
96
— 100 |
Spectacular |
92
— 95 |
Outstanding |
89
— 91 |
Great |
85
— 88 |
Good |
81
— 84 |
Solid |
|
www.dutchercrossingwinery.com